Singapore, 26th February 2025 – A decade ago, Chinese fine wine was barely in the global conversation. Today, it’s not only producing quality wines but also pushing boundaries with Pinot Noir clone tastings. The game has changed!
When I first heard about a Chinese Pinot Noir clone tasting, I was curious but unsure. China’s wine industry has grown a lot, but experimenting with different Pinot Noir clones in one winery? That’s something I would expect in Burgundy or California, not in Hebei Province.
A Masterclass in Pinot Noir Clonal Diversity
I attended a masterclass at Praelum Wine Bistro hosted by Canaan Winery titled “Masterclass 2019 Pinot Noir Clone Tasting.” The session offered a deep dive into the clonal diversity of Pinot Noir, followed by a tasting of their flagship blend and award-winning Syrah Reserve 2019.
Canaan Winery’s approach, in my humble opinion, emphasized structure, elegance, and complexity rather than strong fruitiness or immediate aromatic impact. The wines showcased a consistent winemaking signature, focusing on balance and restrained power.
About Canaan winery
📍 Location: Huailai County, Hebei Province, China
📅 Founded: First vintage in 2009
🌱 Vineyard Size: 275 hectares
🍾 Annual Production: ~500,000 bottles
🏷️ Key Brands: Canaan Winery (broader production, including the Chapter and Verse series) and Domaine Franco-Chinois DFC (premium, limited-production wines)
The winemaker: 赵德升 Zhao Desheng
👨🏻💼 Chief Winemaker at Canaan Winery & Domaine Franco-Chinois
💼 Experience: trained in Bordeaux for over two decades
🍇 Winemaking Style:
- Structure over immediate aromatic impact
- Elegance over power
- Good complexity, balanced body, and decent length
- Subtle, age-worthy wines rather than fruit-driven, juicy styles
Wines tasted: a lesson in clonal differences
A. Five Single-Clone Pinot Noirs
Each clone was vinified separately to showcase its unique character:
- Ling, Dynamic (Wadenswil Clone) – Fresh acidity, floral, fine tannins, elegant.
- Rou, Tenderness (Dijon 113 Clone) – Delicate, perfumed, soft-textured, light red fruit.
- Rui, Wisdom (Dijon 114 Clone) – Structured, silky, with black cherry, spice, and depth.
- Jing, Power (Dijon 777 Clone) – Deep color, rich fruit, strong tannins, and intensity.
- Lian, Restraint (Swan Clone) – Light-bodied, floral, spicy, earthy, refined.
B. Mastery Pinot Noir (Blend of Clones)
A blend integrating the best traits of each clone:
- 25% Swan Clone
- 25% Dijon 777 Clone
- 25% Dijon 114 Clone
- 25% Mixed Clones
The result? Balance, complexity, and structure.
C. Syrah Reserve 2019
🏆 Awarded “Chinese Wine of the Year 2024” by James Suckling.
🚀 Not yet released to the market.
🍷 Style: elegant, structured, deep fruit, with refined tannins. Aged longer for added complexity and depth.
Final Thought
This tasting experience was a masterclass in clonal diversity, blending, and structured elegance, proving that China’s fine wine scene is evolving rapidly, with wineries like Canaan and Zhao Desheng leading the way. Let’s discuss this in the comments💬!
Until next time, God bless!
