Singapore, 23 November 2019 – In the last few years during visits to wine exhibitions in Asia I have noticed an increase of “new” styles of wine presented: “Appassimento” – dried grapes wine – and “Governo” wine. While I will talk about the former next time, today I would like to focus on the latter.
Governo
- What is it?
Governo, also known as Governo all’ uso Toscano, is an ancient winemaking technique believed to have been invented in the 14th century in Tuscany.
The technique consisted on setting aside and drying grapes from September/October harvest, pressing them in November, and introducing the resulting unfermented grape juice into young wine which has just completed the alcoholic fermentation, thereby restarting the fermentation.
This practice leads to a slight increase in the alcoholic strength of the wines and a richer character, but its principal and the most desirable effect is to encourage the malolactic conversion, which was not always easy in the cold cellar in the past before the introduction of temperature-controlled fermentation tanks.
- What are the benefits?
The benefits of Governo is that it encourages the malolactic fermentation which can help stabilize the wine and soften the typically acidic Sangiovese grapes, reducing some of the harshness and volatility in the wine. The luxurious and concentrated juice from the dried grapes adds complexity and richness to the finished wine.
- History
Between 1834 and 1837, the Baron Bettino Ricasoli elaborated what later would become the earlier official composition of Chianti wines. He also wrote precisely about Governo method: “To obtain a Chianti Governo, during the harvest period, one must set apart of the grapes, the most healthy and ripe, better Sangiovese than Canaiolo. leave the bunches for six weeks, placed on racks in the air to dry. Pressed, these grapes produce a must that added to the wine that has just finished fermentation and spent all the sugars, will start a second fermentation lasting until spring.”
- Is it a legal practice?
The regulations of Chianti and Chianti Classico Appellation explicitly refer to Governo method and it can be mentioned in the label. Partially dried grapes can not be more than 5% of the wine.
- Is it available in the market?
Despite been seen in several wine fairs, it is not largely available. For instance Wine Enthusiast (USA) reviewed 5 Governo wines, Tannico (one of the largest Italian online wine shop) listed 5 items and Lazada (the largest Singapore online retailer) offers only 1 wine.
However, several major wineries produce some Governo wine options, including Banfi, Melini, Cecchi, Sensi, Piccini, etc.
Sources:
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Governo
- https://www.wineguy.co.nz/index.php/glossary-articles-hidden/165-governo-method-italy
- http://www.fisarmontecarlo.it/che-cose-il-governo-alluso-toscano
